Not every knitwear project starts with a tech pack
Fashion brands often come to us with an idea, but without a finished tech pack. What they have is a concept that hasn’t yet been translated into concrete technical solutions. And that’s completely normal.
From our experience, this is often an even better starting point — more on that later. What matters less is whether your concept is fully defined, and more whether it can be translated into technical decisions before the prototyping stage.
What do clients usually bring to us?
Most often, it’s a photo, a sketch, a drawing, a moodboard—or sometimes just an idea in the designer’s head. That’s more than enough at the early stage. From there, we can develop the concept together — from idea all the way to a finished prototype.
What needs to be defined before we start?
If we’re working with a returning designer, many things are already established. But for a new project, we typically define:
- the type of product
- the target audience
- whether the product is more standard or fashion-driven
- whether visual impact or functionality is more important
- the expected quality level
(we never go below a certain standard, but higher quality—both in materials and technology—means a higher budget, so this needs to be clearly defined) - the budget
(one of the key factors influencing material and technical choices)
Once these are aligned, we have a solid foundation for making concrete decisions.
How we turn an idea into a tech pack
We always start with the yarn. It’s the foundation of the entire project and has a major impact on all previously discussed aspects — including the budget.
We select it by reviewing yarn libraries and—most importantly — knit swatches we’ve already developed. These swatches are the core of our communication with the designer.
Next, we define the fabric weight. Instead of using technical terms like gauge or yarn count, we rely on physical samples. This makes the decision process intuitive and clear.
Then comes the structure—the knit pattern. Again, we use swatches. While it’s impossible to have every variation, our library allows us to define expectations very precisely.
After that, we move on to the shape and construction of the garment.
The final step is selecting finishes and details—such as ribs, collars, seams, buttonholes, and trims.
Why do we define all of this before sampling?
Because we’re not guessing what the prototype will look like — we already know.
We understand how the fabric will behave in production: its density, stretch, and hand feel. We have a clear vision of the fit and a proposed construction.
This creates a strong foundation for developing a prototype that truly meets the designer’s expectations.
The process becomes structured:
concept → technical decisions → prototyping
And that significantly reduces time spent on sampling.
What matters most at the concept stage?
If we had to choose one thing — it’s the swatch. Or rather, many swatches.
We have dozens of them, and the collection grows every season.
Swatches allow us to communicate clearly without relying on technical language. We can simply point to a sample or combine elements from different ones (e.g. structure from one, weight from another).
This gives us precise guidelines for development and ensures that the final prototype aligns with the designer’s vision.
Summary
When starting a knitwear project, a designer doesn’t need a finished tech pack or fully detailed specifications.
Paradoxically, not having one at this stage often leads to a better-developed product and a more accurate translation of the original vision.
What truly matters is openness to dialogue, the ability to make decisions, and a willingness to refine the concept throughout the process.
