The best yarns for sweaters – How to choose for Your Brand
Choosing the right yarn is one of the most important decisions in sweater manufacturing. The choice depends on whether you are creating a premium collection or a commercial line, as well as on the season and brand identity. Merino, cotton, blends with cashmere, mohair or viscose – each of these yarns has its strengths and limitations. This article explains how different yarn types affect the quality, durability and character of knitwear, and how to select the most suitable option for your brand’s needs.
Why Yarn Choice Matters in Private Label Knitwear
The impact of yarn on quality and durability
People define “quality” differently. What can be measured is the raw and how the yarn is spun. There is no single “good” yarn for every use—different yarns serve different purposes.
Take merino as an example. Worsted-spun merino is smooth and strong. It pills less and keeps its shape better. Some prefer woolen (carded) merino—loftier, airier, with a soft halo—but it can pill and stretch more.
We also look at fibre diameter measured in microns (µm). Finer fibres feel softer. Typical merino ranges are about 21.5–19.5 µm; 19.5 µm is often called extra-fine. Premium merino goes down to 18.5–16 µm. Around 16 µm, merino approaches cashmere in perceived softness. The trade-off is real: the finer the fibre, the more delicate the yarn and the higher the risk of pilling. Softness does not equal durability. Twist, knitting gauge and finishing also affect pilling and strength.
For fashion brands, these differences are crucial: finer yarns elevate premium collections, while stronger fibres guarantee durability in large-scale commercial lines.
Yarns Commonly Used in Custom Knitwear Production
Merino wool – natural softness and breathability
Merino is one of the most widely used yarns in machine knitting. Both worsted-spun and woollen-spun versions are applied. Typical fibre diameters range from 19.5 to 17.5 µm, offering a good balance between softness and durability. Finer grades are often used in premium collections, providing higher softness at the cost of lower resistance to wear.
Brands planning premium knitwear lines often select fibres of 18.5 µm or below for softness, while commercial ranges tend to use slightly coarser but stronger merino around 19.5 µm.
Organic cotton and blends – comfort with sustainability
Beyond classic fine-gauge organic cotton, we offer blends to tune feel and performance:
- 90% organic cotton / 10% cashmere – softer hand and a subtle luxury touch.
- 55% organic cotton / 45% merino wool – added warmth and structure.
- 70% organic cotton / 30% linen – dry, breathable handle for summer pieces.
- 90% organic cotton / 10% PBT – a cleaner, more technical look with better shape recovery.
More and more brands are asking for yarns that support responsible production. Blends with cashmere or merino provide both comfort and functionality.
Hairy Yarns – Alpaca, Mohair & Angora
If you aim for a fluffy, prestigious look, alpaca, mohair, and angora are the top choices:
- Alpaca offers soft, lightweight warmth, is hypoallergenic, and more durable than typical wool, with lower pilling.
- Mohair delivers high luster, strength, breathability, and good resistance to pilling and felting, while maintaining elasticity and shine.
- Angora provides exceptional softness, warmth, and halo, but is fragile and prone to felting; typically blended (20–35% nylon or polyamide) with merino or silk for better structure and durability.
For brands, blending is essential because hairy fibers have short, fragile strands prone to pilling. Adding polyamide boosts durability while retaining fluffiness. Blends with merino or silk refine the handfeel and structure but can tone down the “hairy” aesthetic.
Viscose yarns – fluid drape and modern blends
Viscose is a regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp. It combines a silky touch, smooth drape, and vibrant dye uptake, which makes it a versatile choice for knitwear. Compared to natural fibres like cotton or wool, viscose feels cooler and has a characteristic soft sheen. To expand its performance, viscose is often spun into blends:
- Elastic viscose with PBT – Adding PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) gives the yarn gentle stretch and recovery. This makes garments more resistant to deformation and adds a subtle, modern look with a slightly technical character. Perfect for body-hugging knits and pieces that need to keep their shape.
- Viscose with polyamide – When viscose is blended with polyamide, the yarn develops a crisper, drier handle and feels less silky. This creates a fresher, more structured surface, ideal for summer knitwear and styles where breathability and sharpness are desired.
These blends not only enhance durability and elasticity, but also allow us to tune the handfeel of the final garment—from fluid and silky to dry and technical—depending on the client’s brand DNA and seasonal needs.
Choosing the Right Yarn – Beyond Composition and Durability
Selecting a yarn is about more than just fibre content or strength. Handfeel, appearance, thickness, certifications, and the intended garment type all play a role. The combination of these factors determines how the final product will look, perform, and last.
It is not an easy task and often requires extensive testing and sampling. Brands looking for a private label knitwear manufacturer value expert guidance in yarn selection. Swatches tested in different stitches and gauges allow decision-makers to compare options by touch and appearance.
Exploring yarns for your next knitwear collection? Testing different blends early on is the best way to balance softness, durability, and aesthetics. Swatching and prototyping save time and ensure consistency throughout the custom knitwear development process.
